Cleveland, Beyond Rock (Part III)
Cleveland's cultural wealth turns Tennessee Williams' observation on its head: if all American cities were so fortunate, we would be rich indeed.
University Heights, just past Cleveland Clinic, is the home of the Cleveland Museum of Art, Severance Hall, and Case Western Reserve University. Forming a core of cultural institutions around which other smaller organizations can thrive, this district is worth a winter weekend trip itself.
The CMA opened its original Beaux-Arts building in 1916, and now consists of a 1971 addition by Marcel Breuer aand 21st century addition by Rafael Viñoly. The center courtyard between the 1916 and the Breuer wing, creating a large open space for art as well as conversation and dining.
With holdings from antiquity to the present day, the collection of the CMA is large enough that it cannot really be enjoyed in a single visit, but admission to the permanent collection is free.
Heading a few minutes to the northeast on Route 20, Lake View Cemetery is the final resting place of many prominent Ohioans. At the top of the hill, a dark Gothic tower holds the mortal remains of President James A. Garfield, who was died from wounds after being shot in 1881. A Radical Republican who rose to the rank of General in the Union Army before he was elected to Congress in 1863, Garfield was a much loved and respected man, whose less than 200 day presidency is little more than a historical footnote. The Byzantine interior of the tower, which offers an excellent view of Cleveland from its top portico, is well worth the visit.
South of Cleveland lies Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Established in 2000 out of pre-existing parks, it is the newest National Park in the system, and home to the Blossom Music Festival. As the summer home of the Cleveland Orchestra, the Park enjoys status as a wilderness retreat and cultural center. The centerpiece of the music center is the Blossom Pavilion, opened in 1968. Seated in a natural bowl, the Pavilion itself has a seating capacity for 5,700 people, with room for another 13,000 on the lawn.
Although used for a variety of concerts and styles, Blossom's three hour classical concerts (1 hour with the Festival/Training Orchestra, 2 hours with the Cleveland Orchestra) are well worth the time. With food and drink available, an evening under the stars with music like Antonín Dvořák's 9th Symphony (as I enjoyed on my visit) can be a transcendent experience.
The popular imagination of Cleveland, something a little less gaudy and slightly more boring than the Drew Carey Show, shortchanges the vast resources and history of the region. Cleveland does rock, but the Rock n' Roll Hall of Fame is just a taste of what the city offers. With the most vibrant theater district in the Midwest, a a world class orchestra and art museum, and dozens of restaurants and breweries, Cleveland has something for everyone, and with Ohio prices and charm.
University Heights, just past Cleveland Clinic, is the home of the Cleveland Museum of Art, Severance Hall, and Case Western Reserve University. Forming a core of cultural institutions around which other smaller organizations can thrive, this district is worth a winter weekend trip itself.
The CMA opened its original Beaux-Arts building in 1916, and now consists of a 1971 addition by Marcel Breuer aand 21st century addition by Rafael Viñoly. The center courtyard between the 1916 and the Breuer wing, creating a large open space for art as well as conversation and dining.
With holdings from antiquity to the present day, the collection of the CMA is large enough that it cannot really be enjoyed in a single visit, but admission to the permanent collection is free. 
Heading a few minutes to the northeast on Route 20, Lake View Cemetery is the final resting place of many prominent Ohioans. At the top of the hill, a dark Gothic tower holds the mortal remains of President James A. Garfield, who was died from wounds after being shot in 1881. A Radical Republican who rose to the rank of General in the Union Army before he was elected to Congress in 1863, Garfield was a much loved and respected man, whose less than 200 day presidency is little more than a historical footnote. The Byzantine interior of the tower, which offers an excellent view of Cleveland from its top portico, is well worth the visit. South of Cleveland lies Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Established in 2000 out of pre-existing parks, it is the newest National Park in the system, and home to the Blossom Music Festival. As the summer home of the Cleveland Orchestra, the Park enjoys status as a wilderness retreat and cultural center. The centerpiece of the music center is the Blossom Pavilion, opened in 1968. Seated in a natural bowl, the Pavilion itself has a seating capacity for 5,700 people, with room for another 13,000 on the lawn.
Although used for a variety of concerts and styles, Blossom's three hour classical concerts (1 hour with the Festival/Training Orchestra, 2 hours with the Cleveland Orchestra) are well worth the time. With food and drink available, an evening under the stars with music like Antonín Dvořák's 9th Symphony (as I enjoyed on my visit) can be a transcendent experience.
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