Assateague Island- an Introduction



Looking south from Ocean City's Pier, a fishing spot jutting from the chaos near Trimper's Rides and Ripley's Believe it or Not! at the south end of town, a different world lies just across the inlet: Assateague Island.  A barrier island targeted for development in the post-War era, the Ash Wednesday storm of 1962 put an end to those plans, and the already extant state park became a part of a nature preserve that is one of the largest seaside parks on the Atlantic coast.

Assateague Island is most famous for its feral horses, divided by a fence into two herds at the state line.  The more famous Chincoteague “ponies” of Virginia are herded across the water each year to the island of the same name, where the local fire department holds an auction for the healthiest of them as an annual fundraiser.  The Maryland herd is treated as wildlife, and artificial birth control is used to manage its size.  Because of their limited diet on the Island, the auctioned horses are taken in and given better nourishment to improve their overall health before being sold.

At 37 miles long, the administration of the Island is complicated.  Assateague Island National Seashore runs the length of the Island, though a portion of the Maryland side is a campground under state park supervision.  The bulk of the land on the Virginia side, Chincoteague National Wildlife Preserve, is under the management of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

The Maryland side is accessible only by the Verrazano Bridge (yes, really) at the end of MD 611, which leads first to the State Park.  Well developed as a camping area, day-trippers and activity seekers should travel further south to the National Seashore area, where the camping areas are supplemented with drive-in beach facilities, kayaking, and nature trails.  The paved access to Assateague ends about three miles into the park, and vehicle access is by permit only from there to the Virginia state line.  On Virginia side of the park, access is from Chincoteague Island, and like the northern end of the park, vehicle access towards the state line is limited.

My own visits have been to the Maryland side of the park.  Mornings typically begin at Assateague Outfitters, where you can rent a kayak, canoe, paddleboard, bike, or even a clam rake.  Don’t laugh.  Situated on the Sinepuxent Bay, it’s a long walk into shallow water, and clamming is not only possible but part of the local economy.  In the past, I have observed many folks a couple of hundred yards out clamming, while I paddle my way towards deeper waters.  Kayaking “bayside” is available throughout Delmarva, but this is one of my favorite areas.  There are lots of shallow marshes and areas to explore. Waterfowl is more plentiful.  Perhaps most importantly, I can’t recall any shark sightings in these waters, unlike the bays further north in Ocean City.  Although I’ve always explored the area alone, guided kayak tours are available.

There are three short public trails on the Maryland side, each themed to the wildlife of the Island: “Life of the Marsh,” “Life the Forest,” and “Life of the Dunes.”  The Virginia side has a number of short trails, along with the 7 ½ mile service road that is open to hikers.  Of course, hiking along the beach is always an option.

Visiting in the summer, it is advisable to bring lots of water and beware of the heat.  The beach offers a welcome respite.  Even at the height of summer travel, the beach is refreshingly uncrowded compared to the metropolis just to the north.  Clean, guarded beaches are interrupted only by occasional “evidence” of the local horse population, but it isn’t too much of a distraction.  While the water is no different from Ocean City, you have a good bit more of it to yourself, and are free to walk a great distance for however much beach property you feel you need. 

The focus around Assateague will almost always be the small horses that are the Island’s permanent residents.  As wild animals, you can’t get too close, but they add a beauty to the landscape that is unique in the region.   Enjoy their company as you take in one of the Mid-Atlantic's most interesting national parks.

Assateague Island National Seashore
Open year-round; times vary according to location and facility

 © 2017 Randall Stewart




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